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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.